Difference between revisions of "Soap-making process"

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===Downtime===
===Downtime===
# Get moulds ready
# Get moulds ready
# Rub castor oil in rigid mold
# (if using rigid moulds) Rub castor oil in rigid mould
# Prepare cooler
# Prepare cooler
# (if using powdered milk) Use stick to break up powdered milk (''before'' adding in lye)
# (if using powdered milk) Use stick to break up powdered milk (''before'' adding in lye)
# Check lye-water periodically until it has cooled to 110°F
# Check lye-water periodically until it has cooled to 110°F


Once the lye reaches its temperature, everything happens rather quickly. Stir the mix until it begins tracing, then pour it into the molds.
Once the lye reaches its temperature, everything happens rather quickly. Stir the mix until it begins tracing, then pour it into the moulds.
| valign=top |
| valign=top |
===Cooler arrangement===
===Cooler arrangement===
Line 31: Line 31:
** rectangular tray
** rectangular tray
* top:
* top:
** big log-mold with lid
** big log-mould with lid
** small number of cubes for testing
** small number of cubes for testing
|}
|}
==Unmolding==
==Unmoulding==
''(no unmolding notes at this time)''
''(no unmoulding notes at this time)''
==Trimming==
==Trimming==
* It's probably a good idea to trim the soap '''no more than two days''' after unmolding.
* It's probably a good idea to trim the soap '''no more than two days''' after unmoulding.
* For cutting into bars, use green "washer" marks for aligning guide
* For cutting into bars, use green "washer" marks for aligning guide
* If log edge is funky (uneven):
* If log edge is funky (uneven):
** line the slidy bit flush with edge of cutter for first cut
** line the slidy bit flush with edge of cutter for first cut
** then change to line up with green markings under adjusting washers
** then change to line up with green markings under adjusting washers
* Tog: tall kitchen bags held down by silicone mold bits
* Tog: tall kitchen bags held down by silicone mould bits

Revision as of 20:33, 23 November 2019

~~ a handy reminder-list of the order in which things happen, and some significant details to have in mind ~~

Chemistry

Lye

  1. Get the refrigerated water - use scale to measure the needed amount (2 lbs 8 oz)
  2. Put on breath mask and gloves
  3. Open up lye container
  4. Measure the lye
  5. Add lye to refrigerated water

Oils

  1. Put the solid oils in the black pot
    • Weigh them as you're adding more, to get the right weight
    • Re-tare the scale after each one
  2. Add in the olive oil
  3. Heat the black pot to (slowly) melt the solid oils
    • Turn burner to 2 until solids melt, then down to 1 until temperature is reached.

Downtime

  1. Get moulds ready
  2. (if using rigid moulds) Rub castor oil in rigid mould
  3. Prepare cooler
  4. (if using powdered milk) Use stick to break up powdered milk (before adding in lye)
  5. Check lye-water periodically until it has cooled to 110°F

Once the lye reaches its temperature, everything happens rather quickly. Stir the mix until it begins tracing, then pour it into the moulds.

Cooler arrangement

  • bottom:
    • rectangular tray
  • top:
    • big log-mould with lid
    • small number of cubes for testing

Unmoulding

(no unmoulding notes at this time)

Trimming

  • It's probably a good idea to trim the soap no more than two days after unmoulding.
  • For cutting into bars, use green "washer" marks for aligning guide
  • If log edge is funky (uneven):
    • line the slidy bit flush with edge of cutter for first cut
    • then change to line up with green markings under adjusting washers
  • Tog: tall kitchen bags held down by silicone mould bits